Marijuana
Nutrients And Growing Hydroponic Marijuana
Nutrient (or fertilizer) is food for plants. Marijuana plants need a certain amount of food in order to grow properly. The primary nutrients in plant foods are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium also called Potash (K).
In addition to nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium, marijuana plants require a lesser amount of secondary nutrients and trace quantities of other elements.
Secondary nutrients are calcium, sulphur, and magnesium. Trace elements are small quantities of boron, chlorine, cobalt, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc.
Plant foods are measured in an N-P-K format
N is Nitrogen
P is Phosphorus
K is Potassium (Potash)
A 7-4-3 plant food contains:
7% Nitrogen
4% Phosphorus
3% Potassium
A 30-15-15 plant food contains:
30% Nitrogen
15% Phosphorus
15% Potassium
The percentage of the solution not used by nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium is secondary nutrients, trace elements, and/or inert material.
An all purpose nutrient with secondary nutrients and trace elements might get you through all stages of growth. But when growing hydroponic marijuana, you should adjust the nutrient levels to optimal quantities during different stages of plant growth.
Regardless of the nutrient you choose, during the first 1-2 weeks of life and the first 1-2 weeks of flowering, use half the amount (or less) of nutrient solution the manufacturer recommends.
That is, if the nutrient package says to mix one tablespoon of nutrient to every gallon of water, you should add less than half a tablespoon of nutrient to every gallon of water for the first 1-2 weeks after germinating or cloning, and when flowering is initiated.
This is not essential when flowering, unless the plants have just been transplanted, but it is for seeds and clones. Some marijuana growers don't add any nutrients to the water for the first 1-2 weeks. They then use a 50% solution for 1-2 weeks, then go to a 100% solution.
During seedling/vegetative growth the plants need lots of N (nitrogen). They also need a fair amount of P (phosphorus) and K (potassium), 7-4-3, or 30-15-15, or something with a similar ratio of N-P-K, and secondary nutrients, and trace elements will work.
During flowering the plants need more P (phosphorus) and more K (potassium) than they did during vegetative growth. They still need some N (nitrogen) but not more they did during seedling/vegetative growth. They also need secondary nutrients and trace elements.
If you used:
--- Something like 7-4-3 for seedling/vegetative growth, then try using 4-8-7 or 6-8-8 for flowering.
--- Something like 30-15-15 for seedling/vegetative growth, then try using 15-30-30 or 25-30-30 for flowering.
The important thing here is that N be a bit less (or the same), and P and K higher when flowering than when the plant was in the seedling/vegetative stage.
If you can't find nutrients containing the proper combination for your needs, look for a hydroponic nutrient recommended for 'growth' when the plant is in the first stages of life and look for a hydroponic nutrient recommended for 'blooming' (or flowering) when the plant is in the flowering stage.
Two and three part hydroponic nutrient solutions, that allow you to custom blend the amount of the different components, are highly recommended. Organic hydroponic nutrients are available and very good for growing marijuana, but they can be harder to find and expensive.
Do not give your plants extra nutrients thinking it will make them grow faster. Too much will kill your plants. If you under fertilize, plant growth will be slowed but they will stay alive. Follow the mixing instructions on your hydroponic nutrient package, if you aren't sure, use less rather than more.
As water evaporates and is absorbed by the plants, your water reservoir level will drop. When it does, it will have to be replaced with pH adjusted tap water that has been aged 3 days or longer to top up the reservoir.
If you have reverse osmosis or distilled water, they don't have to be aged but the pH has to be adjusted so it is the same as that in the reservoir. I don't add nutrients to the water when I top up the reservoir tank (deep water culture system, the nutrient solution is changed every 4-7 days), but some people do.
Change the nutrient solution every 2 weeks, or more often. That is, discard the old solution then wipe clean and rinse off (with plain water, no soap) any easy to access parts like the reservoir, pumps, and other equipment that comes into contact with the nutrient solution.
After cleaning, add new water to the reservoir, add nutrient solution, then adjust pH. The old solution that you are discarding can be used to water house or garden plants. This will at least double the growth rate if you usually water your plants with regular tap water.
It can not be stressed as to how important nutrients are to the success of your crop. Nutrients, pH, and temperature are the 3 top considerations when growing hydroponic marijuana. If you experience a crop failure it will probably be due to one of these factors.
My marijuana plants have grow their best with vita grow dry.
It's a 3 part nutrient that can be employed for both hydroponic and soil growing. 1 pound of each part (total cost under $50) will last at least a year if you are growing for personal use. For more detailed info about using vita grow dry see this.
If the water you use is tap or well water, there will probably be some amount of dissolved solids present in the water. These solids, in addition to the those in the nutrients you add, can cause the quantity of dissolved solids to reach dangerously high levels.
Dissolved solids include metals, minerals, and salts that are dissolved in water. The reason for measuring dissolved solids in a nutrient solution is because if the quantity of dissolved solids is too high, it will eventually kill a plant. An ec or tds meter can be used to monitor the dissolved solids in your nutrient solution
Dry Powder vs Liquid Nutrients
If you are buying nutrients, think about getting the dry powder kind that you mix with water. They are much cheaper over the long run when you compare with already mixed liquid solutions.
Already mixed liquid solutions are just as good, but many are primarily water and a good portion of the price you pay is to cover shipping water that you can add at home for free. There are some concentrated solutions that may be cost effective but I've always saved money using dry powder nutrients.
If you are using a hydroponic system that uses a pump to circulate water you will have to make sure the powdered solution dissolves fully before adding it to the reservoir. This is because any undissolved nutrient crystals can ruin a pump.
A good way to dissolve dry nutrients is to put some water in a cup, add the nutrient powder and stir. When you are sure that the powder has been fully dissolved, you can add it to the nutrient reservoir.
If there are any undissolved crystals left in the bottom of the glass you can add some warm water then stir and let sit for a few hours. After a few hours, stir up again and add to the reservoir. If there are still undissolved crystals in the glass, you can throw them out.
Don't use any nutrients not specifically designed for hydroponic systems. That is, don't try to use nutrients designed strictly for growing in soil. In most cases, nutrients designed for soil growing will not fully dissolve fast enough to be introduced into a nutrient reservoir.
Stop all plant food at least 7 days before harvesting when growing in a hydroponic garden. The last time(s) you change the water in your reservoir, don't add any nutrients, just pH adjusted water.
You can repeat this water only 'feeding' several times in the week prior to harvest. When growing in soil, stop all plant food at least 14 days before harvest.
This is so N-P-K and other elements can be removed from the plants before harvesting. This will ensure that your weed is easier to ignite, doesn't taste like plant food, and you are ingesting a minimal amount of N-P-K, secondary nutrients, or trace elements. See when to harvest your marijuana crop for more info.
Related Books Marijuana Grower's Handbook
Very comprehensive book by Ed Rosenthal that covers all aspects of indoor and outdoor marijuana cultivation with soil and hydroponics. A reference manual with over 500 pages and color images throughout. Contains a 20 plus page section about nutrients and fertilizers with color images.
Marijuana Grower's Handbook
Marijuana Horticulture
By Jorge Cervantes, this is a very good book that includes information about growing marijuana inside and out with soil or hydroponic methods. A reference manual with over 500 pages and more than 1000 color images. Describes growing marijuana outdoors and indoors (with hydroponics or soil). Contains a 40 plus page section with color images about water and nutrients.
Marijuana Horticulture