MarijuanaCannabis Growing Guide Part 6A Marijuana Garden At HomeTable of contents [Overview] [Genetics And The Marijuana Plant] [Germination] [Growth Stage] [Flowering Stage] [Grow Lights][Male And Female Plants] [Sinsemilla] [Growing With Hydroponics] [Soil Growing Indoors] [Shelf Growing With Soil Indoors] [Soil Growing Indoors And Outdoors] [Growing Outdoors] [Guerrilla Growing] [Harvesting] [Storage] [Security] [Odors] [Pests] [Nutrients] [Foliar Feeding] [pH] [Carbon Dioxide] [Temperature] [Venting] [Transplanting] [Pruning] [Cloning] [Breeding] StorageIf your weed is going to be stored for more than a year it should be wrapped in an air tight container and be stored somewhere that is dark and cool. A freezer is best, but a fridge, basement, closet, or something similar will do. Dry it first if you grow your own, or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that light, air and heat are the things to avoid. SecurityIts interesting that marijuana plants really do blend in with other plants to the point that they are unidentifiable by all but the most observant. I remember a relative of the family on a visit to Texas showed me his corn in the garden and I was standing 3 feet away from several pot plants before I recognized them for what they were. Plants started outdoors late in the season never get very big and never attract the least bit of attention when placed next to plants of similar or taller stature. Even tall plants grown among several trees will be almost invisible in their camouflage. Outdoors the object is to control access to an area, and not to arouse suspicion. Tuck them here and there, never in a recognizable pattern. Space them out, and fit them in to the existing landscape such that they get full sun, but they're hidden or blend in. Try to find strains that seem to match the surrounding plants. Feed nitrogen to your plants if they need to be greener to blend in. Some growers even use plastic red flowers, pinned to a plant, disguising it as a flower bush. Visit the plants at night on full moons, and if your visible to neighbors, appear to be pruning a tree, mowing the lawn, or doing something in the yard that makes you invisible. Dig a hole and put a potted plant in it. The plant's height will be reduced by at least a foot. Some growers top the plant when it is 12 inches high, and grow the 2 tops horizontally along a trellis. The plant will never be over 3 feet tall, and never arouses suspicion from neighbors. This type of plant can even be grown in your yard in full view. Many stories abound of having the neighbors over for a BBQ and nobody ever noticed the nice plants over by the fence. OdorsNegative ion generators have been used for years now to cut down on odors in a grow room, but reports are coming in that a negative ion generator will increase growth speed and yield. No true evidence to support this. However it does make sense, due to the fact that people and animals seem to be altered in a positive way by negative ions in the air, so plants may feel better too. Try putting one in the grow room. You may notice the buds don't have as much scent when picked, but that may be desirable in some cases. A good negative ion generator can be purchased for about $100 depending on the type and power involved. Some have reversed cycles that collect the dust to a charged plate. It is also possible to use grounded aluminum foil on the wall and shelf where the ionizer sits, to collect these particles. Just wipe the foil clean once a month. It should be grounded to an electrical outlets ground wire. If you don't cover the wall and shelf with paper or foil, the wall will turn dark with dust taken from the air, and you will have to repaint that wall later. Another means of reducing or eliminating odors is by using an ozone generator. They are more expensive than negative ion generators (about $200 or more for a good one), but they do a better job. If you would like to build an ozone generator yourself, plans are located here. But if buying a pre-made unit is a better option, compare prices at ebay and amazon An alternative method is to use exhaust fans, these have the advantage of also being used to remove heat from the grow room. If you plan on using an exhaust system, make sure it is used in an area that won't attract attention. Placing it on a roof or other space that is seldom used by other people is a good idea. Pests You really have to watch pests, or all your efforts could result in little or nothing in return. Mites and Aphids are the worst; white flies, caterpillar and fungi are the ones to watch out for long term. Pyrethrum When bringing in plants from outside, pyrethrum every broad leaf top and bottom and the soil too. Then watch them closely for a week or two, and soap down any remaining bug life you find from eggs being hatched. This should do the trick for a month or two, long enough it won't be an issue before harvesting. Fungus is another obstacle in the path of a successful growing season. When the flowers are roughly half developed they become susceptible to a fungus or bud rot. It appears that growing conditions for the fungus are best when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees and the humidity is high. The fungus is very destructive and spreads quickly. It is a spore type of fungus that travels to other buds via the wind so it is impossible to prevent or stop if weather conditions permit it to grow. If things should go badly and the fungus starts to attack your plants, you must remove it immediately or it will spread to other areas of the plant or plants. Some growers will remove just the section of the bud that is infected whereas other growers will remove the entire branch. Removal of the entire branch better insures that the fungus is totally re- moved, and also enables the grower to sample the crop a few weeks ahead of time. Fungi can wipe your crop quick, so invest in some safe fungicide Keep humidity down (under 50% if possible), circulate air in the grow space, and keep outdoor plants out of the indoor space. Don`t wait until after flowering, since it's not a good idea to apply the fungicide directly to flowers. Instead, flowers must be cut off when they are infected. Most fungicides are very nasty, and you won't want to ingest them, so it is necessary to use one that is safe for vegetables. Safe fungicide recommended for any type of vegetable will work, just make sure the fungicide was made to be used with vegetables (or other plants that are eaten). Use soap solution like safer's insecticide soap Pyrethrum should only be used in extreme circumstances directly on plants, but can be used in a closet or greenhouse in the corners to get rid of spiders and such. It breaks down within a week to non-toxic elements, and can be washed from a plant with detergent solutions and then clear water. I find Pyrethrum to be the best solution for spider mites, if it is sprayed on young plants up to early flowering. Into later flowering, the tobacco and pepper/soap solution is your best bet, on a daily basis, on the under-sides of all infected leaves. Spider mites are by far the worst offender in my garden. I have finally learned not to bring plants from outside into the indoor space. They are always infected with pests and threaten to infect the entire indoor grow space. It is much more practical to work with the seasons and regenerate plants outdoors in the summer, rather than bringing them indoors to regenerate under constant light. Start a plant indoors, take it outside in spring to flower. Take a harvest or two, feed it nitrogen all summer and it will regenerate naturally, to be flowered again in the fall. Once a plant has been taken outside, leave it outside. © toon - updated by www.a1b2c3.com/drugs/ Books Grow Great Marijuana: |
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